Seems like a large portion of starting problems are connection related and a Perko switch just adds more of these. If this were to happen, I would just take a couple of minutes and physically swap batteries. I don't see much benefit in the capability of being able to switch to the other battery to start it if my starting battery is dead. Since I rarely (never) disconnect battery power from the rest of my boat, I just removed the Perko switch.
SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR INSTALL PLUS
Your best option would be the Blue Sea dual circuit plus switch and an ACR. The dash stereo switch simply turn the head unit on and off but in your plan, all the main power cables would be battery direct with no means to disconnect. The relay is either open or closed where as the ACR is voltage sensative as it has an actual processor. However, I can tell you the basic difference between an ACR/VSR and a simple solenoid type heavy duty relay. Also, there are different types of battery switches that will change a wiring and use scheme, so you really need to be specific. I know you mean battery switch but Perko makes thousands of marine products and their battery switches suck. Then at the end of the day when the boat is out of the water just flip the perko to cut power to everything.Ī perko what, thru-hull or anchor light? Sorry, just kidding. My main goal is to have something I do not have to worry about switching back and forth through out the day. I don't know if all the boats are like that or not. If I went with that set up would I run the perko to the batteries then the batteries to the isolator or am I in la la land? I also should mention, I don't know if its important, but the stereo runs off a switch on the dash. Ha ha So what would the difference be between running a perko and the stinger relay to the blue sea kit? Only reason I am asking is because the relay will be here tomorrow and I have a perko laying around the house.
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